Friday, August 22, 2025

No fog on the Tyne

The Baroness and I are just back from a couple of days in the northeast of England. On the list of things to do was a visit to Arbeia, the Roman fort at South Shields, something we've wanted to do since a trip to Wallsend on the other side of the Tyne a few years back. With Gangs of Rome scenery on the workbench, I was keen to see the reconstructed buildings at Arbeia to get some ideas for colour schemes.

The fort we can now see the remains of in South Shields was built in the mid-second century, probably to guard the strategically important River Tyne. It went through several phases of rebuilding, much of the time serving as a supply base for Hadrian's Wall. Certainly there were far more granaries on the site than would have been normal for a fort of its size.

The site has a number of modern reconstructions of buildings and I was very impressed. Most imposing is this gatehouse on the western side of the fort.

The Arbeia gatehouse - Leven Miniatures did a similar model
in 6mm scale

A reconstructed barrack block is another modern addition to the site. Their remains are such a familiar feature of Roman military sites but it was really illuminating to see one in three dimensions.


Pleasingly, four of the six internal spaces are open to the public and have been fitted out to varying degrees. 

Quarters for a centurion with storage
chest, stool and pattens

A small wooden shrine and a wall mounting
for an oil lamp are nice touches

The centurion rates a second room...



... and a kitchen.

The spaces for the men were less palatial.

Primitive fireplace with a flue built into 
the wall

With eight men in a contubernium, these bunk beds will
have been somewhat cramped

But at least there's a ceiling to provide
some insulation against the British weather

Another section of the barracks has been left partly completed so visitors can see the wattle and daub construction of the internal walls.




I was able to get some useful photos of roof construction details. I may have a go at 3D designing some Roman roof tiles as they're quite different to modern pantiles.





At the southern end of the site there's a very impressive reconstruction of a third century commander's house.

Ignore the ironwork - it's a modern anti-climbing measure


A nicely done household shrine



Lots of paintwork to copy






The interpretation boards are numerous and really well done.


The interior of the commander's house has been fitted out in Third Century style. I took loads of photos but I'll just share a couple here.



Finally the on-site museum is crammed full of interesting finds with more in the internal rooms of the gatehouse. 

A painting by the late Ron Embleton, brother of Gerry
the well-known illustrator of military subjects

Tyne & Wear Archives and Museums and South Tyneside Council have done a superb job here and I thoroughly recommend a visit to Arbeia if you have an interest in Roman subjects.


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